But certainly, in this period, its vocation as a world class tourism centre has been confirmed, its easygoing small town rhythm of life becoming a focused drive transforming it into what it is now.

Major hotels, golf clubs, yacht harbours, new motorways etc have now prepared the way to the biggest economic phenomenon of the closing years of the century - tourism. As part of this trend, gastronomy began to develop in 1969, when the restaurant Santiago began to offer its first roasts and oysters to clients. La Fonda, then a small hotel-restaurant, offered a mixed bag of English cooking. But a new owner, Don Benito, then introduced his French cooking, with starring dishes such as skate with melted butter, and soon this became a fashionable place to eat. The Carleton brothers' Derby and later on the Cenador also started to attract a similar clientele.

Paul Schiff at the Hacienda deserves special mention, a master chef and true genius who has made an outstanding contribution to gastronomy in the area, and who has founded his own school of professionals.

Beni in Puerto Banus, an enchanting place,after years of stylish service, eventually disappeared. Antonio is still going strong, with his well-flavoured, traditional dishes.

After Beni, Pepito and Fermin Muņoz, the latter one of the leading professional chefs of the area, took over the former Cipriano restaurant.

The boom of Puerto Banus, with Greek, Thai, Chinese, Caribbean, French and Italian restaurants is certainly a monument to international cooking.

La Fonda one of Spain's leading restaurants, along with the Marbella Club, both of them leading players in the development of gastronomy in the area.

During this period, the simple tastes of yesterday underwent profound change. The standard dishes of avocado pears with shrimps and pepper steaks of earlier years were replaced by more sophisticated fare, with Horcher and Paul Schiff introducing the "nouvelle cuisine". It was under their guidance that I embarked on the greatest adventure of my life - the management of La Meridiana restaurant, which from a modest start became a leading institution on the Coast, and won listings in top gastronomic guides.

The influence of the "nouvelle cuisine" not only modified eating habits but presentation and seasoning of dishes. Herbs already commonly used in many other countries, started to put in an appearance. So did traditional Andalusian cooking, updated and transformed by Paul Schiff and La Meridiana, whose sophisticated clientele, used to high standards of cooking in their own homes, and world travellers, cannot be fooled by anyone.

Around 1985, the Portalon and the Rodeito opened for business, offering roasts of high quality, and as such representing an important branch of traditional Spanish cooking.

The annual gastronomic days at Santiago, in which Spain's premier restaurants take part, have also played a key role in raising local cooking standards.

Present trends, of which I am both a leader and follower, are guiding us towards the traditional Mediterranean diet, with lighter dishes, and salad as a starter, so that we now offer seven or eight different types, incorporating pates, seafoods etc

The most important ingredient will always be the highest quality olive oil and vinegar - since only such quality can ensure exceptional standards of preparation and cooking.

Sauces and creams have slowly disappeared over the period. In our spring menu, there is only one dish with cream. Meat Dishes are less elaborate, roasts predominate, even though recipes of leading chefs are kept on hand. But continuing trends towards lighter diets predominate, so getting up from the table is no longer the heavy effort it used to be!

Last but not least, those exceptional desserts - the small vacherins, meringues, nougat ice creams, wild strawberries, white and black chocolate creams, cocoa cake with pears - the famous Pavlova typical of La Meridiana, and the extraordinarily varied fruit basket which Andalusia's farmers offer us.

Wines are an essential part of a good meal, though they too have been changing. Spanish wines such as those of La Rioja Ribera del Duero, Penedes offer something for all palates and taste. At La Meridiana, I no longer stock foreign wines California, Italy, Chile etc, since Spain's own wines are equally fine. Only in answer to specific requests from certain clients do I include French wines in my wine list.